Journey to the Azure Jewel: Exploring the Enigmatic Allure of Lake Sevan

Whether you're a history buff, a nature lover, or simply someone seeking new experiences, Armenia has something for everyone. From its stunning landscapes and fascinating historical sites to its rich culture and warm hospitality, this small but mighty country has been attracting travelers worldwide in recent years. One of its most prized natural wonders is Lake Sevan, a sparkling gem nestled in the heart of the country, surrounded by lush green mountains, and dotted with charming monasteries and villages.

Amidst the rugged landscape of Armenia's highlands lies a sparkling gem of nature: Lake Sevan. With its crystal-clear waters and picturesque shoreline, this magnificent lake has long captivated travelers worldwide. In this post, we'll take a closer look at what makes Lake Sevan so special and why it's worth a visit on your next trip to Armenia.

My own Sevan

As my own Sevan story unfolded, it intertwined with the life story of a dear friend, creating a tapestry of shared experiences. Through the enchanting threads of my friend's own story and our unforgettable adventure to Sevan, this post stands as a heartfelt homage to the enduring bond of our friendship, celebrating the moments we shared and the profound impact they had on our lives. Join us as I explore the captivating allure of this breathtaking destination and the powerful connection it holds to those who call it home.

One day, she began sharing her Sevan story, and it hit me instantly—I wanted to hike that same route. She made a deal, though: she'd spill the rest of the story once we actually set foot on the road she had etched in her mind. I didn’t even know what I wanted more – unraveling the rest of the story or hitting the road for the trip itself. But as we hopped off the bus and set foot on that gravel road, backpacks snug on our shoulders, it hit me. It wasn't about choosing between the story and the trip; they were like two peas in a pod, inseparable. And she knew this all the way down: without one, the other would be incomplete.

With an intriguing "Well..." she began to finish the story, and through her narrative, I could feel the crisp mountain air on my face, hear the gentle lapping of waves against the shore, and see the vibrant hues of green and blue that make up the lake's stunning landscape.

I’m incredibly lucky to have accompanied her on this extraordinary adventure and embarked on the very same route a few years ago. It remains etched in my memory as an unforgettable experience, and now, I'm excited to share it with you. Growing up in Armenia, I had never fully grasped the immense natural beauty concealed within our nation's embrace until she took me on this captivating journey to Sevan.

Her own Sevan

Since this post is about experience sharing, I invite you to join us on this narrative expedition through her first-person perspective. By experiencing the tale directly from her “mouth,” we can forge a deeper connection and fully immerse ourselves in the unfolding events. I believe the narrator's voice is best suited to bring the rest of the story to life.

"Well... as a child, I used to dread long car rides, but some of my fondest memories were of the trips to my grandparents' village near Lake Sevan in Armenia. These rides, which seemed never-ending, filled with laughter and lively conversations, brought our family closer together. We would pass through picturesque landscapes, catching glimpses of the majestic lake on the horizon, and a sense of excitement would fill the air. We drove along the lake’s western shore, passing through hilly landscapes and enjoying breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. Lake Sevan, with its serene blue waters and stunning scenery, remains one of my favorite travel destinations to this day.

In the summer, the water's surface is a cold blue color, driven by the winds and accompanied by the cries of seagulls. In the distance, the shapes of the mountains resemble folds of green velvet covered in shadows from the white clouds floating slowly above them. But for me, winter is the best time to admire the lake. The distant mountains are covered in a blanket of pristine white, and on the water, the sunlight glistens like the scales of a trout. Its unique combination of natural beauty and cultural richness, with ancient monasteries and picturesque villages dotting its shores, make it an unforgettable experience for travelers of all kinds.

But an even more vivid memory of Lake Sevan is associated with my grandmother's house. Upon entering the house, we found ourselves in a large living room adorned with a painting on one of its walls. The painting depicted an open book with an image of Lake Sevan, its white mountains and forests captured in stunning detail. It felt like Deja vu, as if you were still in the car and looking out at the same landscape. This image has stayed with me and has become a treasured part of my memories of this beautiful place.

If you're feeling adventurous, you can take a 30-minute walk from the village to the lake through the pine forest. Surprisingly, though, I never made it to the lake when I was a child. However, during the spring, I would take older children up to the top of Mount Armaghan, which offers the most breathtaking view of the lake. The blue waters seem to merge seamlessly with the sky, creating an endless sea in the distance.

The lake itself became the backdrop for countless memories. Summer days were spent picnicking on the shores, the water's cool touch providing relief from the warmth of the sun. We would dive into the crystal-clear waters, laughter echoing across the surface. As the sun set, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink, we would gather around a crackling bonfire, sharing stories and boiling juicy corns. Those moments of togetherness, surrounded by the beauty of Lake Sevan, created an unbreakable bond within our family.

Each season brought its own charm to the lake. In winter, the surrounding mountains were adorned with a glistening coat of snow, inviting us to build snowmen and engage in friendly snowball fights. Spring brought a burst of vibrant colors, as the wildflowers bloomed and the landscape came alive with new beginnings. And in autumn, the trees lining the shores transformed into a canvas of fiery reds and golden yellows, mirroring the warmth and love that filled our hearts.

After more than 20 years away from my homeland, I found myself on the shores of Lake Sevan for the first time when a friend and I decided to take a break and rest by the lake on our way to the village. It was a sunny day in May as we approached the Sevan Peninsula - the epicenter of Sevan's tourism. Of course, during my absence, the traffic on the Yerevan-Sevan highway had become denser with tourist buses heading towards the peninsula and local youth rushing to enjoy their Instagram-worthy vacations.

As I stood there, gazing at the tranquil waters and absorbing the familiar scenery, a rush of nostalgia washed over me. Memories from my childhood came flooding back, and I couldn't help but smile at the realization that some things remain unchanged, even after all these years. Lake Sevan still held the same magic and allure that captivated me as a child. At that moment, I knew that I had come full circle.

And you know what? Now as I share this journey with you, I am reminded of the deep connection between my family and Lake Sevan. It is a connection that transcends time and distance, reminding me of the importance of cherishing our loved ones and the memories we create together.

To be honest, there's nothing extraordinary about my story. It's simply a tale of my repetitive journeys to Sevan and the emotional bonds I have formed with this place and the memories it holds. I wanted to ignite a sense of intrigue within you so that you too can experience something similar to what I have felt, and just maybe you would tell your story to others encouraging them to build their own experiences and memories of this extraordinary landscape. Who knows? Who knows why people tell stories."

Grossman's own Sevan

Listening to her I couldn’t help recalling Vasily Grossman’s own account of Sevan from the early 1960s. In his wonderful book “An Armenian Sketchbook”, Grossman, taken away by the stunning beauty of the lake, writes:

“Sevan lies in the middle of a great scattering of stones. It is very strange – amid the stones you suddenly see deep blue water. Sevan has nothing in common with the dry stony earth – just as a bright faceted jewel has nothing in common with the black velvet on which it rests. The dry hills and mountains have been baked by the summer heat and winds, smoothed by the geological weight of time – and there amid them lies deep-blue water. Usually water and dry land are connected. Usually there is a gradual transition between them – dump sand, a squelchy, boggy, gradually descending shore, lush grass, reeds, willows whose leaves are constantly peering into the lake, as if they breathe not air but water. Here, though, the baked mountain stone and the deep-blue water are separate, and equally self-contained. This blue water seems unearthly; it seems to have peeled off from the sky. Probably it is closer to sky level than to sea level. It even seems strange that fish can live in this cold, transparent, deep-blue water; what one expects to see, flying beneath the surface, are the birds of heaven.”

With my friend's captivating story of her deep connection with Lake Sevan now shared, I find myself standing on the precipice of my own story. As we concluded our hike, the echoes of her narrative still reverberated within me, intertwining our experiences on this remarkable adventure. Now, dear reader, it is time for me to take the reins and guide you through the tale of my own encounters and discoveries as I ventured to and explored the enchanting landscapes surrounding Lake Sevan.

Your own Sevan

The main attraction of Sevan is located on the peninsula - the Sevanavank Monastery. This still functioning monastery was built in 874 AD and has been rebuilt several times over the course of its existence. The monastery sits on a slight elevation, providing visitors with a beautiful view of the lake. Tourists often take photos on the benches located on the lookout while listening to guides speak about the history and legends of Lake Sevan in various languages.

On the western side of Lake Sevan, approximately 30 km from the Sevan Peninsula, lies the ancient Ayrivank Monastery, which dates to the 9th century. This monastery is often overlooked by tourists, but if you find yourself near Sevan, it is definitely worth a visit.

In general, it's better to drive to Sevan not from Yerevan, as most travelers do, but from the northwest, on the way from Dilijan. The car will be taking turns on a steep and winding mountain road for a long time and will lead to the top of the pass approaching the desired saddle. Unexpectedly, as is often the case in the mountains, the ascent ends, and at the foot of the mountains, a huge water space opens up, enclosed in a dark frame of mountain ranges.

As we walked around the temple, we descended a stairway and caught the sweet vanilla scent that was so tempting that we couldn't resist following it. It led us to a traditional Armenian pastry - Gata. We were the first in line for the new batch, and although we had to wait for fifteen minutes for them to come out of the oven, it was worth it.

Afterward, we walked down to the shore, where the sound of the water sang a lullaby to the spread-out mountains along the coast. The lake's surface shone like silver in the sunlight, and in the distance, we could see the white caps of the mountain ranges. The gigantic lake mesmerizes with its landscape in this part of the Gegharkunik region.

After spending some time on the pier reading a book and chatting with local souvenir vendors about the upcoming tourist season, we decided to stop for a snack before continuing our journey. Besides the stunning natural beauty, this region of Armenia is known for its delicious food and is a hub for fish. We chose to visit a famous fish restaurant located to the north of the Sevan Peninsula. Here, not only can you order a variety of fish dishes and enjoy a meal with a stunning view of the lake, but you can also try the famous Sevan trout.

Time seemed to effortlessly slip away, carrying us from the warmth of the afternoon into the approaching evening. The anticipation began to build as whispers of the impending sunset danced in the breeze, casting a gentle spell upon us. Little did we know that the breathtaking spectacle about to unfold would transcend our expectations and leave an indelible mark on our hearts.

The azure waters, once shimmering under the radiant sunlight, now took on a mystical hue, reflecting the vibrant colors of the evening sky. The atmosphere grew hushed as if nature itself held its breath in awe of the spectacle about to unfold. We found ourselves drawn to the shores, instinctively seeking the perfect vantage point to witness this nightly marvel. As golden hour enveloped the landscape, a serene calm settled upon us, casting a spell that momentarily suspended the worries and cares of the world.

With each passing minute, the clouds danced across the expanse, as if celebrating the celestial masterpiece taking shape. Silhouettes of distant mountains framed the scene, adding depth and dimension to the panoramic spectacle. For those fortunate enough to witness a sunset on Lake Sevan, it becomes an indelible memory, a testament to the extraordinary power of nature to stir our souls and remind us of the inherent magic that exists in the world around us.

As the sun embarked on its descent, I was taken aback by a profound realization—the transition from day to night was unlike anything I had ever witnessed. The sun did not gradually sink below the horizon; instead, it plunged abruptly into the depths of the boundless emerald-black abyss of the night, casting the surroundings into the most mesmerizing shade of purple. It felt as though a switch had been flipped, instantly extinguishing the day, and igniting billions of stars that overwhelmed the confines of my imagination.

It was time to make our way back, and we stumbled upon a bus heading from Tbilisi to Yerevan. It seemed like the perfect opportunity to extend our journey and explore more of the remarkable experiences that awaited us. The atmosphere inside the bus was serene, filled with whispers of anticipation as we ventured into the darkened landscape. A sense of tranquility enveloped us, as the bus meandered through the winding roads. The night sky, untouched by the glow of city lights, revealed its true brilliance. A vast expanse of twinkling stars stretched above us as if the universe had unfurled its celestial tapestry.

As we journeyed further into the night, a sense of detachment from the physical world washed over me. The boundaries between the lake, the sky, and my own existence blurred, merging into a seamless fusion of awe-inspiring beauty. It felt as though I had become a part of that cosmic symphony, carried along by the bus as it traversed the night.

In that transcendent moment, I realized that this trip had touched me in ways beyond the physical. The lake, with its mirror-like surface reflecting the starlit sky, had become a portal to a realm where the boundaries between self and surroundings dissolved. While physically returning from that incredible journey, I couldn't escape the feeling that a part of me remained suspended in that timeless space. Sevan had become a cherished memory, forever etched in my heart.

And so, dear reader, I hope you hit the road to amazing Sevan one to embrace the magic of those breathtaking moments and allow them to guide you deeper into the tapestry of experiences, forging a connection with Armenia that extends beyond the limits of time and place. Let Sevan be the backdrop for unforgettable memories and transformative experiences. The wonders of this extraordinary destination await, ready to embrace your senses and ignite your spirit of adventure. It is a place where time seems to slow down, allowing you to reconnect with nature and discover a sense of peace and serenity that lingers long after you've left.

P.S.

Do bring a jacket along, even in summer. As the second largest mountainous freshwater lake, it gets chilly after sunset around Sevan. Stay cozy enjoying the breathtaking scenery of this remarkable destination.